the best Transmission Drain pan I have

MSCH

Well-known member
yall ever change your ATF and trans filter at home know that without having a drain plug in the pan as well as a large drain pan, you are going to have a large amount of ATF on the floor.

I found the perfect solution. I cut a plastic 55 gallon barrel lengthwise..

check it out.
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I have a Mityvac and loosen the pan bolts just enough to get the vacuum hose into the pan and mostly empty it before I take it off. This works IF the fluid level is below the gasket. Or, put a PPE pan on with a drain plug, which I did on my truck. Or cut a 55 gallon drum lengthwise :)
 
Over the years, I have added this to any vehicle I service lacking a drain plug in the trans pan.
The first drain is still messy, but once these are installed, it's a piece of cake.
Not the only brand out there; similar ones from other companies.

Never had even one leak or drip yet, after many years of service across many vehicles.
 
Over the years, I have added this to any vehicle I service lacking a drain plug in the trans pan.
The first drain is still messy, but once these are installed, it's a piece of cake.
Not the only brand out there; similar ones from other companies.

Never had even one leak or drip yet, after many years of service across many vehicles.
I used one of those on a previous vehicle.. and it is helpful.. sort of wondering why I haven't used on on this truck, truck is close to 150k miles and I think this is the 3rd time I've R@R'ed the fluid and filters. I also just serviced both Diff's, and am going to replace the water pump, thermostat and the belt over the next couple days..
 
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I do regular changes, so the $300 drain plug was worth it (PPE Pan). Although I did do 3 D&F's with an electric pump.
 
I also just serviced both Diff's, and am going to replace the water pump, thermostat and the belt over the next couple days..
I'd like to see some pictures of the 6.7 water pump and thermostat change.
 
Over the years, I have added this to any vehicle I service lacking a drain plug in the trans pan.
The first drain is still messy, but once these are installed, it's a piece of cake.
Not the only brand out there; similar ones from other companies.
I'll bet I could have installed one of these instead of buying the PPE pan for the Duramax. I didn't know these exist. I thought you had to weld a plug fixture into the pan...

The PPE pan sure looks nice though and holds another gallon more than the factory pan. The trans temps only run about 2°F cooler in my application.

I do regular changes, so the $300 drain plug was worth it (PPE Pan).
As do I, in my cars I normally do a 20k spill and fill on the trans. But with HPL trans fluids and the large trans pan on the truck, I'll probably move to a 50k spill and fill and filter change. The 10L1000 doesn't appear to put much clutch material into the oil.

My PPE pan post:
 
I'll bet I could have installed one of these instead of buying the PPE pan for the Duramax. I didn't know these exist. I thought you had to weld a plug fixture into the pan...

The PPE pan sure looks nice though and holds another gallon more than the factory pan. The trans temps only run about 2°F cooler in my application.


As do I, in my cars I normally do a 20k spill and fill on the trans. But with HPL trans fluids and the large trans pan on the truck, I'll probably move to a 50k spill and fill and filter change. The 10L1000 doesn't appear to put much clutch material into the oil.

My PPE pan post:


Not sure how the cooling circuits in the bigger trucks are, but in a lot of the 10R80 applications, the trans sheds the heat into the main cooling circuit, so while you don't see a big dip in trans temps, it is putting less heat into the cooling circuit, helping the rest of the system stay a little less 'stressed'.
 
Not sure how the cooling circuits in the bigger trucks are, but in a lot of the 10R80 applications, the trans sheds the heat into the main cooling circuit, so while you don't see a big dip in trans temps, it is putting less heat into the cooling circuit, helping the rest of the system stay a little less 'stressed'.
The ZF trans in my Durango and Charger is heated by the engine coolant so it maintains 200°F.

The Duramax 10L1000 always runs right at 145°F and will maybe heat up to 155°F pulling up a long grade. I would imagine they have some kind of a thermostatically controlled valve that sends more or less coolant through the cooling block depending on the temperature of the trans fluid.
 
The ZF trans in my Durango and Charger is heated by the engine coolant so it maintains 200°F.

The Duramax 10L1000 always runs right at 145°F and will maybe heat up to 155°F pulling up a long grade. I would imagine they have some kind of a thermostatically controlled valve that sends more or less coolant through the cooling block depending on the temperature of the trans fluid.
They keep it quite a bit cooler than Ford does. Ours run around 200 most of the time, seen as high as 235, but usually around 210 on the interstate and towing. My cooling loop is stupid complicated. Ford pipes that stuff all over the place.

Here lately it doesn't get up to temp on a cold morning. Barely gets to 170 before I get home with my 12 mile drive. Coolant doesn't hit 200 either.
 
On my old 17 1 ton I had a PML deep pan.
This new truck does not even have a dipstick. That is one thing I do not like about it.
I'll bet I could have installed one of these instead of buying the PPE pan for the Duramax. I didn't know these exist. I thought you had to weld a plug fixture into the pan...

The PPE pan sure looks nice though and holds another gallon more than the factory pan. The trans temps only run about 2°F cooler in my application.


As do I, in my cars I normally do a 20k spill and fill on the trans. But with HPL trans fluids and the large trans pan on the truck, I'll probably move to a 50k spill and fill and filter change. The 10L1000 doesn't appear to put much clutch material into the oil.

My PPE pan post:
Well I know what I am doing to the truck when it is time.
 
the MOPAR 68RFE in my truck has a thermostatic control... basically the thermostat keeps the trans oil running thru the transmission until it reaches operating temp ( 170f). above that temp fluid is allowed to flow thru the cooler.

mostly the setup runs 170F. about the only time I see much above 170 is in heat soak conditions . I don't think I have ever seen above 190 and it is very momentary.

most of the heat in an automatic is generated from the torque converter, which is why you might see higher temps when in city traffic that in highway use.
 
On my old 17 1 ton I had a PML deep pan.
This new truck does not even have a dipstick. That is one thing I do not like about it.
aggravating, not having a distick.
I have 2 vehicles now that have that feature.
find myself filling a transmission thru a piece of aquarium tubing and a funnel
and then checking the level thru what is effectively a standpipe in the trans pan
as being not really any more difficult that thru the dipstick once you get your mind around it
but a little more of a why did they do this?.
 
I'd like to see some pictures of the 6.7 water pump and thermostat change.
I'll try to take some.. honestly, Cummins water pump is simple, two bolts and WP slides in the block.. all you have to do is get the belt loose a bit. same for thermostat. its on top, basically out in the open... two bolts. I'll probably remove the air filter housing and the alternator first to get at the water pump as there isn't much room and that stuff is easily removable..

the trick is going to be the belt. not much room between fan and front of engine, I suspect I will just take the tensioner loose so I can get the belt behind it..
 
aggravating, not having a distick.
I have 2 vehicles now that have that feature.
find myself filling a transmission thru a piece of aquarium tubing and a funnel
and then checking the level thru what is effectively a standpipe in the trans pan
as being not really any more difficult that thru the dipstick once you get your mind around it
but a little more of a why did they do this?.
It's almost certainly manufacturing cost savings. @dnewton3 does this sound reasonable given your career in manufacturing engineering?
 
It's almost certainly manufacturing cost savings. @dnewton3 does this sound reasonable given your career in manufacturing engineering?
That would be my take along with the fact that most vehicles, including HD pickups go to the scrap heap with the OEM fluid in the transmission.

I added an AFE extra capacity pan with drain plug to my 2012 Ram 2500 years ago. It certainly makes the mess much more manageable. The extra 3+ quarts are nice as well.

Just my $0.02
 
That would be my take along with the fact that most vehicles, including HD pickups go to the scrap heap with the OEM fluid in the transmission.

I added an AFE extra capacity pan with drain plug to my 2012 Ram 2500 years ago. It certainly makes the mess much more manageable. The extra 3+ quarts are nice as well.

Just my $0.02
that is a valid point... how many people actually do any maintenance to an automatic transmission? ten percent? the other 90% drive it until it ends up being rebuilt of in the junkyard.
 
aggravating, not having a distick.
I have 2 vehicles now that have that feature.
find myself filling a transmission thru a piece of aquarium tubing and a funnel
and then checking the level thru what is effectively a standpipe in the trans pan
as being not really any more difficult that thru the dipstick once you get your mind around it
but a little more of a why did they do this?.
Agree 100%.

I was lucky enough that a dude over on the Ranger Forum decided he hated it, and he had the ability to make one aftermarket. Granted, it is expensive, but no more expensive than the B&M one that you have to futz around with marking, and the one for my truck comes pre-marked and calibrated.

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Dude really knocked it out of the park on the design. Even custom etched the dipstick.
 
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