NEMA 14-50 IP66 installed on the house today

Wayne

Wayne

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Staff member
An electrician installed the conductor for 50 amp service to this 14-50 outlet today. It's ready to use, but I need a 50' extension cord that will be here soon. Now I can run the A/Cs in the trailer whenever I want without starting the generator. And I can just leave it plugged in to keep the batteries changed.

Shandy supervised
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Small and waterproof outlet.
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No more 12ga 120v drop cord.
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Wayne , a RV outlet is sure nice to have... , we stuck a 30A out in the yard on a fencepost... of course did our own electrician work complete without permits or any of the other regulatory niceties the code people require that turn a 200 dollar job into a thousand. ... a roll of underground romex and a 30A outlet in a weather proof box... I can't run 2 AC's though.. RV stays plugged in...


also did the same thing to my in laws house, as much as we stay there it comes in handy for moochdocking.
 
MSCH said:
Wayne , a RV outlet is sure nice to have... , we stuck a 30A out in the yard on a fencepost... of course did our own electrician work complete without permits or any of the other regulatory niceties the code people require that turn a 200 dollar job into a thousand. ... a roll of underground romex and a 30A outlet in a weather proof box... I can't run 2 AC's though.. RV stays plugged in...


also did the same thing to my in laws house, as much as we stay there it comes in handy for moochdocking.
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Yea, I'm not calling or asking anyone to do stuff like that to my house.

I'll be installing a mini-split next weekend, complete with outdoor wiring in conduit and no one is going to bother me about permitting jack.
 
ctechbob said:
Yep, I get $200 back from my EMC and I'm pretty sure I still have federal tax rebate left.

It'll put me around $400 out of pocket. And that's after I bought a vacuum pump and gauge set.
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guessing you mean some type of ac unit...
I remember replacing the compressor on a Trane unit we had on my old house
and the most difficult thing about it was nobody will sell you a compressor
if you aren't a authorized Trane dealer. :)
I knew someone in the building business and he was able to put the arm on a ac guy and get me the compressor..

what sort of refrigerant does the mini split use? I'm assuming it is all shipped in the condesing/compressor unit
and you just need to evacuate the lines.
 
MSCH said:
guessing you mean some type of ac unit...
I remember replacing the compressor on a Trane unit we had on my old house
and the most difficult thing about it was nobody will sell you a compressor
if you aren't a authorized Trane dealer. :)
I knew someone in the building business and he was able to put the arm on a ac guy and get me the compressor..

what sort of refrigerant does the mini split use? I'm assuming it is all shipped in the condesing/compressor unit
and you just need to evacuate the lines.
Click to expand...

Yes, they are ductless heat pump units, they ship pre-filled with the refrigerant and all you have to do it make sure your lines are evacuated.

Mine is either R410 or R32, can't remember off the top of my head.

I'm doing it to band aid my whole house system. What I REALLY need to do is have the ductwork redone, but that is going to be quite expensive. Working nights, during the summer my master bedroom gets far too hot for me to sleep comfortably and vice versa in the wintertime. There just isn't enough airflow out of the main system being the furthest point from. I usually use a window unit in the summertime, but that doesn't do any good in the winter. To make it comfortable in my room means the rest of the house is either too hot or too cold and is a big waste of power.

Plus this unit is a SEER 20 unit as opposed to my main unit which is only a 16. So a bit more efficient. I should also be able to leave it in 'Eco' mode all of the time to function as a dehumidifier and eliminate the one I already use.
 
they have those flexible duct systems now which they can just replace, assuming it is reachable.
SW bedroom on our house is the warmest and the farthest away from the AC unit..
heat load in FLA is pretty severe and that room not only is farthest away from the air handler
but it gets the afternoon sun.

kinda like me growing up in MI
my room was the absolute coldest in the house in the winter.
farthest away from the furnace.. and thermostat is downstairs in the living room.
 
MSCH said:
they have those flexible duct systems now which they can just replace, assuming it is reachable.
SW bedroom on our house is the warmest and the farthest away from the AC unit..
heat load in FLA is pretty severe and that room not only is farthest away from the air handler
but it gets the afternoon sun.

kinda like me growing up in MI
my room was the absolute coldest in the house in the winter.
farthest away from the furnace.. and thermostat is downstairs in the living room.
Click to expand...
Same for my place, southwest facing bedroom.

You can get to my ducts, but to fix it right will mean moving the handler and doing rigid ducting for part of it. Not something I want to do, and the quotes I've gotten in the past were just stupid, and that was before 2020.
 
yeah, my wife wants to get more insulation in the attic.
our air handler is in the garage suspended from the ceiling.
Pay somebody to deal with that.
Worst thing I have ever seen was my sisters house had the air handler in the attic..

I probably could do insulation myself but I dread getting in the attic so if I can get it done reasonable I'm going to get it sprayed.
If not it can wait until next winter ( two week period in SWFLA right after Xmas :) ) and buy the insulation and HOme Depot will let you use the spray machine free
 
MSCH said:
yeah, my wife wants to get more insulation in the attic.
I probably could do it myself but I dread getting in the attic so if I can get it done reasonable I'm going to get it sprayed.
If not it can wait until next winter ( two week period in SWFLA right after Xmas :) ) and buy the insulation and HOme Depot will let you use the spray machine free
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Yep, I have plans to do that as well.

Oddly, about a year ago the cellulose was super hard to come by. When I looked a few months back it was still hit or miss. That is definitely going to be a early spring, late fall project. Doesn't take much to be too hot up there.
 
ctechbob said:
I'm doing it to band aid my whole house system. What I REALLY need to do is have the ductwork redone, but that is going to be quite expensive. Working nights, during the summer my master bedroom gets far too hot for me to sleep comfortably and vice versa in the wintertime. There just isn't enough airflow out of the main system being the furthest point from. I usually use a window unit in the summertime, but that doesn't do any good in the winter. To make it comfortable in my room means the rest of the house is either too hot or too cold and is a big waste of power.
Click to expand...
We just zoned our 2nd floor with a mini-split for exactly the reasons you just stated. I'm very much looking forward to the 2nd floor not being smoking hot in the summer and the basement and first floor being like an ice box. Plus the whole-house air conditioner would run almost 24 hours/day just to keep the 2nd floor tolerable.
 
Wife and I did the Home Depot blow in cellulose years ago in our 1985 tract house fixer-upper. It was messy but we ended up with 8" of insulation over the 3" of batt that was poorly installed originally. I'd do that 10 times rather than work with fiberglass batt.
 
I installed an outlet in the side of my shop for the 30 amp rv plug. Had to run less than a foot of 8 gauge wire for it. I also have a mini split in my shop that wife and I installed. The main reason we installed it was for the humidity. I have some expensive tools that I don’t need rusting including a 14x40 metal lathe. Had the shop spray foamed prior to installing the mini split. The spray foam also slows down the temp swings to eliminate condensation.
The roof and exterior walls of our house are spray foamed also. Our electric bill usually is around $100 in July, August and September and $55 during the cooler months. We do have a tankless water heater and stove that uses propane.
 
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