ctechbob
Well-known member
Note: This is not intended to be a how-to or step-by-step guide. It is more my journey into 3D printing and things I’ve done that relate to camping with our rig. There are tons of 3D printing how-to’s on the internet that you can reference for help getting started on the adventure.
Also, I’m not going to tell you which 3d printer to get, there are tons of them out there. I will say, that I like my Ender3. It is well-supported, parts are everywhere, and they are cheap. Just remember, the first rule of 3d printing, is that you will end up printing upgrades to your printer. Not that you have to, but there are tons of little things you can print that make things work better, work easier, store tools, etc.
That out of the way…….
I never intended to get into 3D printing, or rather, it was far down my list of hobbies to pick up. When a brand new Creality Ender3 showed up on my doorstep courtesy of my little brother, my priorities list immediately got reordered and I took to putting the little robot to work. Initially downloading and printing different designs from the internet and then moving on to modifying downloaded designs and designing my own. There is a whole world of downloadable designs out there courtesy of the ‘open source’ nature of the hobby and generous designers. Probably the most popular of the download sites is www.thingiverse.com, but there are also www.cults3d.com, and www.printables.com among others.
Eventually, you may want to move on to designing things on your own if there is nothing out there that fits your needs. Disclaimer: I am far from being a CAD (Computer Aided Design) expert. I can get by in my choice of 3D design program, but you’re not going to see me drawing much more than things with a bunch of flat surfaces. The trick with CAD is finding a design program that fits the way your brain works and sticking with it long enough to be able to get things done. You’ll be looking for one that can output an ‘STL’ file which can be brought into your slicing program of choice to be turned into code that the printer uses to make your dream a reality. For me, for the last couple of years, that program has been Designspark Mechanical. Although they have recently removed the ability to edit an existing STL file from their free version, I still use it to do my drawings and it still allows you to export an STL file. There are many other options out there, from browser-based ones, to downloadable programs, you just need to search out and try some.
Between your downloaded or self-designed file sits the slicing program. This is the piece of software that takes your STL file and ‘slices’ it into layers and creates the code that directs your printer how to print. You don’t really need to know anything about G-code, but if you wish, an explanation of it can be found here: https://www.3erp.com/blog/g-code/
Just like everything else, there are many choices when it comes to slicers. The one that comes with the Ender3 is functional enough, but most people download and use Ultimaker Cura (https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/). It is free and has many more options than the Creality Slicer that the Ender Printers come with.
Either way, you will set the specifics of your printer into the slicer program, along with variables such as the printer head and heated bed temperature you want to use (This depends on what material you are printing with and what your printer ‘bed’ is made out of), and the speed at which you want to print. In general, the slower you print, the better the end quality. You also need to pick your ‘infill’ percentage. Most 3D prints are not solid. Printing a solid structure would be very strong, but you would also use mass quantities of filament and it would take forever to print. So in that case, the outer section of the print (2-5mm) is solid, while the interior is filled with varying amounts of support. The more support, the stronger the print and the longer it will take (And use more material). Article on Infill: https://all3dp.com/2/infill-3d-printing-what-it-means-and-how-to-use-it/
There are also settings for print support and bed adhesion. Your printer can’t print something out in open air, so if you have a design with large overhangs, you will need the slicer to include disposable support in the print. See: https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-supports-guide-all-you-need-to-know/
Bed adhesion is used when you have an object with a small base that might not stick to the bed properly. Just like the supports, the slicing program can include a ‘raft’ that is printed with the object that is broken off and discarded after printing. Most of the time, if you’re using supports, you should use a raft. I tend to try and print things without either if possible as it results in a cleaner print. Not always possible though. With some experience, you’ll figure out what can and can’t be printed with and without support and rafts.
Now, you have your design, it has been sliced and ready to print. Chuck the SD card into the printer and you’re off to the races, almost. Before you press that ‘go’ button, make sure the printer is up to temperature and check that your print bed is level and the right distance from the print head (If you have a printer that requires manual adjustments of these things). A set of metal feeler gauges can come in handy here, although I used a simple piece of printer paper for about a year before I bought a set of feeler gauges.
Now you print. Or at least you hope so. If everything is right, the printer will start, the first layer will stick to the bed, and all you have to do is wait. As long as that first layer sticks, chances are, everything will turn out ok.
A Word On Materials:
I’m just not going to do that here, there are so many different materials to print from it is mind-boggling. Starting out, stick with PLA, it is easy to work with and will give you good results. If you need something semi-flexible, TPU is what you will be looking for. A little harder to work with but will still give good results.
For more on materials: https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printer-filament-types-3d-printing-3d-filament/
Here is the equipment/upgrades I use:
Ender 3 with upgraded ‘silent’ motherboard ($35 for the motherboard)
3D-printed filament feed ($6 for a pack of 8 skateboard bearings)
3D Printed filament roll support (See cost for bearings above)
3D Printed tool and supplies holder
By far, the best upgrade I’ve made over the couple of years I’ve been printing
A Raspberry Pi Zero 2W running OctoPrint. (In a 3D printed case of course).
I picked the Pi Zero 2W at the time as it was during Covid and it was the only Pi I could get my hands on for reasonable money that would do that job. Any Pi with better specifications than the Zero 2W should work just fine.
This is the best money you can spend to upgrade your 3D printing setup. For around $50 all in you can get the Raspberry PI, the necessary power adapter, and USB hub to make it all work.
With this setup you no longer have to shuttle your files back and forth on an SD card and every bit of the printer is controlled through a web interface.
Free of course: https://octoprint.org/
Also, I’m not going to tell you which 3d printer to get, there are tons of them out there. I will say, that I like my Ender3. It is well-supported, parts are everywhere, and they are cheap. Just remember, the first rule of 3d printing, is that you will end up printing upgrades to your printer. Not that you have to, but there are tons of little things you can print that make things work better, work easier, store tools, etc.
That out of the way…….
I never intended to get into 3D printing, or rather, it was far down my list of hobbies to pick up. When a brand new Creality Ender3 showed up on my doorstep courtesy of my little brother, my priorities list immediately got reordered and I took to putting the little robot to work. Initially downloading and printing different designs from the internet and then moving on to modifying downloaded designs and designing my own. There is a whole world of downloadable designs out there courtesy of the ‘open source’ nature of the hobby and generous designers. Probably the most popular of the download sites is www.thingiverse.com, but there are also www.cults3d.com, and www.printables.com among others.
Eventually, you may want to move on to designing things on your own if there is nothing out there that fits your needs. Disclaimer: I am far from being a CAD (Computer Aided Design) expert. I can get by in my choice of 3D design program, but you’re not going to see me drawing much more than things with a bunch of flat surfaces. The trick with CAD is finding a design program that fits the way your brain works and sticking with it long enough to be able to get things done. You’ll be looking for one that can output an ‘STL’ file which can be brought into your slicing program of choice to be turned into code that the printer uses to make your dream a reality. For me, for the last couple of years, that program has been Designspark Mechanical. Although they have recently removed the ability to edit an existing STL file from their free version, I still use it to do my drawings and it still allows you to export an STL file. There are many other options out there, from browser-based ones, to downloadable programs, you just need to search out and try some.
Between your downloaded or self-designed file sits the slicing program. This is the piece of software that takes your STL file and ‘slices’ it into layers and creates the code that directs your printer how to print. You don’t really need to know anything about G-code, but if you wish, an explanation of it can be found here: https://www.3erp.com/blog/g-code/
Just like everything else, there are many choices when it comes to slicers. The one that comes with the Ender3 is functional enough, but most people download and use Ultimaker Cura (https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/). It is free and has many more options than the Creality Slicer that the Ender Printers come with.
Either way, you will set the specifics of your printer into the slicer program, along with variables such as the printer head and heated bed temperature you want to use (This depends on what material you are printing with and what your printer ‘bed’ is made out of), and the speed at which you want to print. In general, the slower you print, the better the end quality. You also need to pick your ‘infill’ percentage. Most 3D prints are not solid. Printing a solid structure would be very strong, but you would also use mass quantities of filament and it would take forever to print. So in that case, the outer section of the print (2-5mm) is solid, while the interior is filled with varying amounts of support. The more support, the stronger the print and the longer it will take (And use more material). Article on Infill: https://all3dp.com/2/infill-3d-printing-what-it-means-and-how-to-use-it/
There are also settings for print support and bed adhesion. Your printer can’t print something out in open air, so if you have a design with large overhangs, you will need the slicer to include disposable support in the print. See: https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-supports-guide-all-you-need-to-know/
Bed adhesion is used when you have an object with a small base that might not stick to the bed properly. Just like the supports, the slicing program can include a ‘raft’ that is printed with the object that is broken off and discarded after printing. Most of the time, if you’re using supports, you should use a raft. I tend to try and print things without either if possible as it results in a cleaner print. Not always possible though. With some experience, you’ll figure out what can and can’t be printed with and without support and rafts.
Now, you have your design, it has been sliced and ready to print. Chuck the SD card into the printer and you’re off to the races, almost. Before you press that ‘go’ button, make sure the printer is up to temperature and check that your print bed is level and the right distance from the print head (If you have a printer that requires manual adjustments of these things). A set of metal feeler gauges can come in handy here, although I used a simple piece of printer paper for about a year before I bought a set of feeler gauges.
Now you print. Or at least you hope so. If everything is right, the printer will start, the first layer will stick to the bed, and all you have to do is wait. As long as that first layer sticks, chances are, everything will turn out ok.
A Word On Materials:
I’m just not going to do that here, there are so many different materials to print from it is mind-boggling. Starting out, stick with PLA, it is easy to work with and will give you good results. If you need something semi-flexible, TPU is what you will be looking for. A little harder to work with but will still give good results.
For more on materials: https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printer-filament-types-3d-printing-3d-filament/
Here is the equipment/upgrades I use:
Ender 3 with upgraded ‘silent’ motherboard ($35 for the motherboard)
- Believe it or not, it makes a difference how the machine drives the stepper motors. The motherboard that came with my printer made the steppers make high-pitched whining sounds that you could hear in the next room (IE annoyed the wife). The new motherboard drives them differently and they are dead silent. It might be standard now, I haven’t kept up with what they’re selling/shipping in 2023.
- I had an issue with the thermistor on the OEM hot end and replaced it
- I wore a slot in the factory piece over time and replaced it with an aluminum one along with →
3D-printed filament feed ($6 for a pack of 8 skateboard bearings)
- Gives the filament a smoother path into the extruder and prevents wearing a slot into the extruder tension arm
3D Printed filament roll support (See cost for bearings above)
- The OEM roll holder just lets the roll drag on a plastic tube. The printed one uses 2 bearings for less friction. Makes the feeding of the filament more accurate.
3D Printed tool and supplies holder
- 3 Drawers that fit underneath the control panel that hold tools, extra nozzles, and a few spare bolts.
By far, the best upgrade I’ve made over the couple of years I’ve been printing
A Raspberry Pi Zero 2W running OctoPrint. (In a 3D printed case of course).
I picked the Pi Zero 2W at the time as it was during Covid and it was the only Pi I could get my hands on for reasonable money that would do that job. Any Pi with better specifications than the Zero 2W should work just fine.
This is the best money you can spend to upgrade your 3D printing setup. For around $50 all in you can get the Raspberry PI, the necessary power adapter, and USB hub to make it all work.
With this setup you no longer have to shuttle your files back and forth on an SD card and every bit of the printer is controlled through a web interface.
Free of course: https://octoprint.org/
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