Shock absorbing spring equalizers

Azjeff

Active member
Any thoughts on these fancy equalizers with the rubber bumpers inside that are supposed to make the trailer ride softer? How would you know? It's hard to imagine you could determine the trailer was riding smoother through anything you could feel through a receiver hitch. Has anyone installed one on a trailer and felt a difference before and after? None of the YT influencers that I've watched have tried to test these things to 1. determine if they really do anything and 2. determine with test data a ranking order of effectiveness.

 
Any thoughts on these fancy equalizers with the rubber bumpers inside that are supposed to make the trailer ride softer? How would you know? It's hard to imagine you could determine the trailer was riding smoother through anything you could feel through a receiver hitch. Has anyone installed one on a trailer and felt a difference before and after? None of the YT influencers that I've watched have tried to test these things to 1. determine if they really do anything and 2. determine with test data a ranking order of effectiveness.



Yep, CRE3000's on mine. Definitely takes some of the chucking out when you're going over bumps and bridges/uneven pavement. For the money I recommend. Of course, you'll want to do the wet bolt upgrade at the same time if you don't have them already.

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So you felt a before/after difference? Don't know what you mean by chucking.
 
So you felt a before/after difference? Don't know what you mean by chucking.
Definitely felt before/after effect.

Best way I can describe chucking is when you're going over something like a big bridge expansion joint/gap and you feel the trailer give you a little shove forward as it goes over the joint. The suspension softens that impact and smooths things out.

Kinda hard to describe and I suspect, the bigger the truck you have the less you'd feel it, but you can feel less of an impact back there.
 
Also, I didn't pick the CRE's for any other reason than they were the most affordable and looked well done. I don't know that you could go wrong with any of the offerings. Something being better than nothing.
 
my RV had the Moreryd setup on it when I bought it( used) ... but it also has the bracing kit that stiffens up all the spring bracketswith some added cross members. .. those welded on spring shackles are known weak point on many trailers.

worth saying one of my More Ryd equalizers broke on my Alaska trip. which I don't know if its a known thing or just because of the weight of my trailer ( Bighorn weighs in around 13,000) and doing some seriously severe bad roads for many miles..

I can't say anything about ride quality as RV was this way when I purchased it, so I can't compare but these parts are definitely a better quality than what the manufactuer gives you.


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they sold me upgraded suspension equalizers. It is worthpointing out you can see the stabilizer cross braces in this photo, which attach the right and left outside spring shackles to each other.

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I like the design of that AllTrek as opposed to the first one you had. Looks like it should be a little more sturdy.
 
they sold me upgraded suspension equalizers. It is worthpointing out you can see the stabilizer cross braces in this photo, which attach the right and left outside spring shackles to each other.

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Is there a dampener in these? They look much more sturdy than the one that broke. Are they supposed to improve the ride or just be stronger?
 
Is there a dampener in these? They look much more sturdy than the one that broke. Are they supposed to improve the ride or just be stronger?
I didn't ask, but the old style was discontinued so I assume these are upgraded... yeah, they have rubber in them.. apparently when the rubber is worn out the bolt in the center will be at the bottom of the slot where those 2 bolts in the center are located.
 
Allow me a technical answer here ... the rubber insert isn't a "dampener", it's a spring.

A dampener's job is to fight the oscillation effects of the up/down (fore/aft, in/out, etc) of whatever it's attached to. Dampeners come in all manner of devices. Sway control devices are dampeners. Shock absorbers are dampeners. Hood and liftgate struts are dampeners. Springs are not dampeners. Simply put, dampeners resist movement.

Springs (coil, leaf, rubber, air, etc) all are made to carry load and give some travel of the axle to reduce chassis movement; they don't dampen anything. Springs will naturally load and unload in a cyclic motion until arrested by something else (friction, pneumatic or hydraulic valving, etc).

These rubber-spring devices are a great idea, IMO. I think they can be of great benefit. But they are not "dampeners" as they don't reduce any oscillation. They merely supplement the existing springs by adding more spring travel. The "softness" or "hardness" of the rubber will make them either give way before or after deflection of the main leaf spring, all depending upon the durometer valuation of the rubber (a measure of compression resistance for rubber) relative to the OE metal spring.
 
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Springs (coil, leaf, rubber, air, etc) all are made to carry load and give some travel of the axle to reduce chassis movement; they don't dampen anything. Springs will naturally load and unload in a cyclic motion until arrested by something else (friction, pneumatics or hydraulic valving, etc).
having spent a few years driving an old F600 which came from Ford without any shock absorbers... leaf springs all around no shock absorbers, I completely understand what you mean about dampeners.. :)
 
Allow me a technical answer here ... the rubber insert isn't a "dampener", it's a spring.

A dampener's job is to fight the oscillation effects of the up/down (fore/aft, in/out, etc) of whatever it's attached to. Dampeners come in all manner of devices. Sway control devices are dampeners. Shock absorbers are dampeners. Hood and liftgate struts are dampeners. Springs are not dampeners. Simply put, dampeners resist movement.

Springs (coil, leaf, rubber, air, etc) all are made to carry load and give some travel of the axle to reduce chassis movement; they don't dampen anything. Springs will naturally load and unload in a cyclic motion until arrested by something else (friction, pneumatic or hydraulic valving, etc).

These rubber-spring devices are a great idea, IMO. I think they can be of great benefit. But they are not "dampeners" as they don't reduce any oscillation. They merely supplement the existing springs by adding more spring travel. The "softness" or "hardness" of the rubber will make them either give way before or after deflection of the main leaf spring, all depending upon the durometer valuation of the rubber (a measure of compression resistance for rubber) relative to the OE metal spring.
That's a really great explanation!

The rubber spring in the suspension will then absorb some of the energy in the motion when you hit a bump in the road. This would lessen the shock on the trailer?
 
That's a really great explanation!

The rubber spring in the suspension will then absorb some of the energy in the motion when you hit a bump in the road. This would lessen the shock on the trailer?

What it does is create another level of interaction; one of a "better" result because of variability.

Typical metal springs are mono-rate (leaf, coil, torsion); they're all pretty much the same concept. For X inches of travel, you get Y pound of force. Typically rates for vehicles as "Xxx lbs / inch". So for every inch of deflection, it causes Y pounds of force up into the chassis. Say a spring has 4" of total travel, and it support 1000 lbs / inch. If sitting still it compresses 2", then it's supplying 2000 lbs of support to the chassis. Then when moving, if it hits a 1" tall obstacle such as a rock, it will transmit an additional 1000 lbs of more force upward to the chassis. (I'm discounting the effects of inertia, tire compression, etc, but you get the picture).

When you add these rubber isolation leaf holders, they add more travel to the system. Plus, they can be "tuned" (by adjusting the durometer value of the rubber) to compress slightly before/after the metal spring would. The reason these work well is that the rubber has the effect of a progressive rate spring, not a fixed rate. (This is the benefit of air springs as well; they are variable rate, too.) Whereas the metal spring would simply offer X lbs at a steady rising rate, the rubber spring can offer both a lower and higher rate, so it "eases" the transition of force imparted to the chassis. The force starts at the tire, then moves up to the wheel, then axle, then leaf spring, the shackle, then the rubber "equalizer", then the frame. So the rubber equalizer can mute the leaf spring effect by softening the transition, making it variable.

Ultimately, it takes "X" lbs of force to suspend the chassis above the ground. The rubber does not alter the force requirement; it only alters the response curve.

Some would ask "why not just use rubber all the time?" Because rubber degrades quicker, is more expensive, and also would need a lot of travel if it were the only spring in place. Metal springs work very well, and leaf springs in particular are chosen on a because they are super inexpensive (relatively speaking) and very robust. Plus, leaf springs resist travel in any direction but the one. Rubber wallows all over unless contained. Using these rubber isolation devices on an RV combines the best of both worlds.
 
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Having worked with the Shore scales and ILD measurements I understand what you're saying. Since I haven't seen any of these devices offering different durometer rubber bumpers for different weights of trailers they could be tunable but they aren't. They mention an "up to" XXXX lb axle rating if anything. I'm reluctant to spend upwards of $400 on a suspension mod that has no quantitative data, only subjective opinions about effectiveness.

(And I can't help it but damping and dampening aren't the same thing. Blame it on my English teacher mother. ;) )
 
I should clarify about the "tuning". They pick one rubber durometer value for the product market. Should they choose, they could certainly pick different values for different applications; like a light, medium, heavy sort of concept. But given the variable rate response, one durometer value fits enough of the market that they don't need more. But they do get to "pick" (tune) the value from the rubber supplier.
 
Some would ask "why not just use rubber all the time?" Because rubber degrades quicker, is more expensive, and also would need a lot of travel if it were the only spring in place. Metal springs work very well, and leaf springs in particular are chosen on a because they are super inexpensive (relatively speaking) and very robust. Plus, leaf springs resist travel in any direction but the one. Rubber wallows all over unless contained. Using these rubber isolation devices on an RV combines the best of both worlds.
Sir Issac :) question for you? Are Timbrens springs or are they dampeners? or a little bit of both.
 
Sir Issac :) question for you? Are Timbrens springs or are they dampeners? or a little bit of both.
depends on which product you speak of. Timbren is just a brand name with a lot of offerings.

This product has both a spring (air) and a dampener.

These are springs only (rubber). And as you can see, they offer differing load capacity (tuning the spring rates probably by tweaking the durometer values and also the size of the device; combined to offer separate capacity choices).

Here's more info on their Aeon springs;
They do speak of "self damping" qualities, but I would disagree technically, as I already discussed above.
They claim the rubber acts as a shock absorber. OK - sort of, on a technicality. But the same can be said of wood, cotton, or glass. Any material that is struck by another object is going to absorb at least some of the "shock" of the sudden force load imparted upon it. Rubber is better than glass and wood, but not nearly as good as a nitrogen-charged valved tube with both compression and rebound dampening adjustments ... That webpage is marketing at it finest.

What we all call a "shock absorber" really is better defined as a dampener device. The springs (metal, air, rubber, etc) bear the load, and the "shock" (dampener) stops the oscillation. The "shock absorber" is really just dampening the compression and rebound forces to slow/stop the natural frequency of the spring from constant oscillation. I'm sure we've all seen that old car running down the road with the tire literally bouncing non-stop because the "shock" is completely blown; there is no dampening left to stop the wheel from literally just hopping up and down as it rolls down the road. We call them "shock absorbers" by habit. They absorb some shock, but only as it relates to the task of attenuating oscillation.
 
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Well my opinion would be that product is a spring; it bears load (either full time, or as an overload assist).

Per their SES product literature, they would agree: (my emphasis in red)

"How? Our Aeon® rubber springs deliver a progressive spring rate. As load increases, our rubber springs push back harder, eliminating squat, sway, and roll. After installation, there should be a ½” to 1 ½” gap between the rubber spring and vehicle’s frame — meaning you’ll enjoy a comfortable unloaded ride, too."


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MORrydes on your trailer. Timbren springs on your truck.
You sure do know how to upgrade! (y) Those probably make a nice improvement all around.
 
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