Always re torque lugnuts after removing a wheel

[Wayne]

I removed the wheels and hubs from our trailer this winter to check the bearings and brakes. After removing the wheels, I torqued the lug nuts to 110 pound feet. There are warnings in the manual that after removing a wheel to re torque the lug nuts after driving 10 miles, 100 miles, and 300 miles. I did exactly that, almost to the mile. At 10 miles, I turned a few of the nuts at least 10° tighter to get 110 pound feet of torque and the rest of the nuts moved at least 1-2°. At 100 miles 4 of the 24 lug nuts tightened about 1-2°. At 300 miles 2 lug nuts turned about 1°. I think I'll check again in about 150 miles. This is important!

 

[Kestas]

They don't require this for no reason. I once ignored that advice. After a 1400 mile trip I found three lugs backed out about 2 turns!

This also explains the two times I bought a used car from a dealer, I found the lugs way overtightened. Same after a trip to a tire dealer. They know people tend to ignore that advice and simply crank them on.

 

[Wayne]

There is a torque spec because the wheel and lugs need to be tightened to the proper "clamping load". If the nuts are too loose, then they will loosen, if they are to tight, then they will loosen. Overtightening may bring the lug bolt past the proper clamping load elasticity and begin to yield. The aluminum wheel under the lug nut may also begin to extrude if the lug nut is overtightened. If either of these conditions occur, nothing good can come of it. Always torque to the proper spec and keep them there.

 

[dnewton3]

Alum wheels have this issue more so than do steel ones. This is not unique to RVs; pretty much true of the cars and trucks also. Proper torque is key, but a bit more critical on Al wheels.

 

[spasm3]

I torque mine, i check them a couple of times a season, or if i have taken a wheel off, i check it at the next stop. Easy enough to take a wrench and socket with you.